Качество прудовой воды для карпов кои (англ)

Небольшая статья о вредных и полезных добавках в пруд.

Chlorine and Chloramines

Chlorine and chloramines are harmful to fish and will kill the beneficial
nitrifying bacteria in the pond. Likewise, they may burn or kill aquatic
plants. Chlorine, a volatile gas, will dissipate with water circulation
and exposure to the air within one or two days. Chloramines, however take
much longer to break down. City water suppliers are more frequently adding
ammonia to combine with chlorine to product the longer-lasting
chloramines. It is not uncommon for city water to test positive for
ammonia straight out of the tap.

When adding chlorinated water to the pond, spray it in with a hose to provide
the necessary aeration for dissipation of the gas.

Sodium Thiosulfate will remove chlorine from water and also pull chlorine
from the chloramines. A stock solution of four ounces of Sodium
Thioslufate crystals to one gallon of distilled water makes your stock
solution. One drop per gallon (50ml per 1,000 gallons) with safely
de-chlorinate your pond. Make sure to use a test kit to monitor your
ammonia levels carefully. High ammonia levels cause disease, and
death.

As a precautionary measure, if the pool is regularly topped off or changed 5
to 10 percent weekly with chlorinated water, setting up fultration through
one pound of zeolite per 100 gallons of pond water will help to remove residual
ammonia.

Heavy Metals

Well water may contain ferrous bicarbonate, detected by a brown precipitate
that forms when neutral or alkaline water is aerated. Besides being mildly
irritating to the fish, ferrous bicarbonate stains equipment and causes water to
become cloudy.

E.D.T.A. (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) can be used to chelate out any
heavy metals such as iron or copper from the water. To make a stock
solution with EDTA, use 1 teaspoon and mix it with 4 ounces of distilled
water. Shake well. Then use 2 drops of this stock solution per
gallon of pond water. EDTA will lower your pH, so care should be used when
adding it to the pond. We suggest taking a pail of water out of the pond,
check the pH and then add 2 drops of EDTA per gallon of pail water. Mix
the water well and then test the pH once again. The maximum amount per day
that the pH may be dropped is 0.2, any more can pH shock the fish, make the fish
stressed and cause a disease outbreak in the pond.

Contaminated Water

Run-off water from a nearby stream, or collected rainwater may contain toxic
insecticides, herbicides or fertilizers. Rainwater from metal roofs or
asbestos shingles will contaminate the pond and may prove toxic to both the
fish, and the plants. If the fish display signs of toxicity, execute a 50%
water change and/or remove the fish to safe quarters, or a hospital tank until
the water has been changed.

Acid rain may produce stress in water lilies. Immediately following to
a heavy rainfall, the lily leaves may show signs of burning at the edges or
abrupt yellowing. A partial water change may be needed after such rainy
periods, if the pH readings are lower than the neutral 7.0 range.

White foam at the waterfall entry of the pond is a sign of a high level of
dissolved organic compounds. Do some partial water changes and add some
Aqua Gold to the pond to handle the high organic load.

Water pH

The pH range of 6 to 8.5 is acceptable for most pond life. The primary
concern with pH is its direct relationship to the toxicity of ammonia and
nitrite. Each pH interger above the neutral 7 reflects a tenfold increase
in such toxicities.

Any pH value below the neutral 7 is considered acidic. Baking soda or
ground limestone will raise the pH level.

pH values over 8.5 will definitely stress the fish to the point of
disease. We receive some calls where the pond owner claims to have a pH
reading of 9.0 or more, and the cause for this is cement or mortar leeching
toxic lime into the water. Bricks or untreated mortar blocks used as
plant pedestals, run-off water, and reconstituted materials used in or around
the pond may be washing in leeched lime which can cause severely high pH
readings.

We suggest you use a commercial lime neutralizer or a nontoxic pool sealant
paint if you have a concrete pond.

If the pH is normally high in your tap water, we suggest obtaining more
suitable fish for your pond, such as the common goldfish, shubunkin, or comet
goldfish. These fish can tolerate higher (non-toxic) pH levels.

Adding Salt To Your Pond

Salt is pretty amazing in it’s ability to control algae, detoxify Nitrites,
kill parasites and it’s antiseptic qualities. Salt is a great item to use
for your water quality, but first… you need to know how much to add. We
feel that a 0.1% continual salt bath is a good level to run at all the
time. To achieve this level, add 1 ? ounces of salt per
10 gallons of pond water.

The maximum level of salt that you can run without major
damage to the fish is 0.3%. This high salt level is used for treating fish
wounds and parasites. To achieve this level, add 3.8 oz. of salt per 10
gallons. This salt level is better suited for a bath, or in a hospital
tank.

http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/koipond/water_quality.html